Just add Water ...

Ireland Circumnavigation: The Fundraiser

During, and before my circumnavigation of Ireland, I raised money for the Irish Lifeboat Instiuttion. To make a donation to the Irish Lifeboat Institution by PayPal or credit card, please click here, or go to the Lifeboat Institution's website at www.rnli.org.uk

Everyone who made a donation, either by PayPal, or credit card, or through the www.rnli.org.uk website, please send me your name to marcusdemuth@yahoo.com, and your name will be listed in the "Donor section below", or feel free to specify in case you do not like to have your name listed. Thank you so much!

Wrong Nutrition: Too few Calories - And too much Sugar

I felt extremely weak 4 weeks into the 6 week circumnavigation, and realized that even a day of rest would not get me the strength back I had in the previous 4 weeks of paddling. I asked the long-distance swimmer, triathlete, friend, and last not least: certified nutritionist Maggie Meehan: What went wrong?

Q; What calorie intake would you suggest for a similar trip (6 week kayak trip 6 to 10 hours of paddling, usually into winds = hard paddling which left me exhausted at the end of the day)? Or: How many calories do you estimate a kayaker burns each day on a 6-10 paddling day of hard paddling?

A: Maggie: I will answer the first two questions together. As a 5’10”, 180 pound, 38 year old male, it is estimated that you need roughly 1800 calories a day just to sit still (known as your basal metabolic rate). See http://www.bmi-calculator.net/bmr-calculator/ if you wish to do this calculation for yourself or anyone else. You are, by the way, within your Ideal Body Weight Range of 166 pounds +/- 10%, so that is good.

Kayaking is estimated to burn at least 340 calories an hour, likely more as you were paddling under very challenging conditions. Six-hours of kayaking would burn at least an additional 2040 calories a day, ten hours would burn an additional 3400 calories. Thus, depending on the day, you would need:

1800 + 2040 = 3840 calories for six hours of kayaking
1800 + 3400 = 5200 calories for 10 hours of kayaking

On windy days, when you were likely working harder, you would need more.

Q: What kind of diet (food groups) would you suggest for a similar trip (6 week kayak trip 6 to 10 hours of paddling, usually into winds = hard paddling which left me exhausted at the end of the day)?

A: Maggie: Your diet should emphasize carbohydrates (pasta, whole grains, vegetables, fruit, not cookies), approximately 70% of your diet should be carbohydrates because glucose is the primary fuel for muscles. About 2/3 of your dinner plate should be carbs. Protein should be lean (beans such as black beans/ kidney beans/ black-eyed peas count as lean protein). Fat generally takes care of itself.

Sabine Weber RD recommends foods higher in fat such a peanut butter and jelly on multigrain bread, trail mix w/ nuts and dried fruit, dried hummus or refried bean mixes, sports bars. But avoid excess, unhealthy fats from potato chips, etc.
Here are some websites I found helpful:

http://www.trailpeak.com/index.jsp?cat=river&con=article&val=4588*art
http://www.adksportsfitness.com/september2005/articles/nutrition.html
http://www.teamgcar.com/articles/food1.htm
http://www.littlerockmarathon.com/PDFs/Resources/FoodsFluidsEndurance.pdf
http://www.otago.ac.nz/humannutrition/dietetics/Summary%20of%20Findings/Jane_Owers.pdf
http://www.fitsportslab.com/MULTI%20DAY%20ADVICE.htm
http://www.angelfire.com/electronic/ultramentor/nutrition.html

Q: At what times during each paddling day would you suggest to eat, and what? (6 week kayak trip 6 to 10 hours of paddling)

A: Maggie: First, of course, you need breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Give yourself some time to digest before beginning to paddle. The closer to paddling you eat your meal, the smaller the meal should be.
Tricia Bland RD notes that after 90 minutes (some estimates suggest up to 120 minutes), all bodily sources of glucose are depleted, so the muscles need to be continually replenished or you’ll bonk. If you feel depleted, foods with a “high glycemic index” (i.e., are converted to glucose faster) may prove a quick fix—these include raisins, graham crackers, Gatorade, and potatoes (not sure potatoes are feasible for a 6-week kayaking trip). Glycogen storage also helps with hydration, for each ounce of stored glycogen, you store 3 ounces of water.

Hydration is very important. You should drink fluids (not Jameson) every 15 minutes (16-20 ounces every hour), water or a sports drink to maintain electrolyte balance. If you are sweating, you will be losing a lot of sodium and need to replace this. Potassium is also lost through sweat. Good food sources of sodium include salted nuts and seeds, salted nut butters, and dehydrated bean mixes with salt. Good food sources of potassium also include nuts and seeds, dehydrated bean mixes as well as dried fruits.
Snacks every half hour or so—energy bar, gel, fruit, trail mix—small amounts so you don’t feel overloaded and uncomfortable. One source recommends 50 g of carbs an hour another recommends 1 -1.5g/kg/hr (for you this would be 81 – 121 gms an hour, which seems high).

Once you finish for the day, have a sports drink, drink it throughout the evening—alternate it w/ the Jameson perhaps (!). Eat within half an hour of finishing for the day, 60-80 grams of carbohydrates. The Gatorade website lists carbohydrate amounts in common foods (http://www.littlerockmarathon.com/PDFs/Resources/FoodsFluidsEndurance.pdf). Later, have a large meal with pasta, rice, veggies, fruits, protein. A glass or 2 of wine is ok.

Q: The list below (scroll down to "Shopping List Ireland Trip") represents both the groceries purchased in Dublin before the trip, and the additional supplemental purchases during the trip. What do you see (too much cookies?), and what do you miss on this list, Maggie?

A: Maggie: I haven’t added up the estimated total calories on your list yet. That will take some time. The website http://www.calorie-count.com/ should help us out here, but a cursory glance might suggest replacing some cookies-particularly those eaten at lunch time w/ a quality sports bar. Despite the sodium, Pringles are probably not a good choice (likely does not contain good fat) and you would be better off w/ salted nuts and seeds. I might choose almonds or walnuts over cashews, which offer mostly fat and have less nutritional value than the other nuts. I would also suggest you look into a powdered sports drink to have for drinking during the day to help w/hydration and electrolyte replenishment. I also think you could have had some more veggies.

Maggie: Some key questions here might be did you lose weight during the trip? (Yes, appr 8 pounds) Were you hungry? (Yes, even after meals) At what point in the day? Did you ever feel disoriented or otherwise depleted? (No)
Shockingly, the list reveals a severe in-balance of food-purchases in the cookie aisle. I would not eliminate all cookies and chocolate because those are pleasurable treats that are earned after a hard day’s work (or even during it). You don’t want to go too moralistic w/ your food because if you get bored w/ it, you won’t want to eat it. For a trip of this length, it’s really important you eat enough every day.

Each post office stop (or "food cache") was appr. 8-10 days apart from the next post office stop, where I also picked up letters from friends and family. I did several more food purchases to supplement the post-office food drops. The list below represents both, the groceries purchased in Dublin before the trip, and the additional supplemental purchases during the trip. Shockingly, the list reveals a severe in-balance of food-purchases in the cookie aisle ...

3 pcs. 200 gr packs of dried "Mixed nuts & fruits"
4 pcs. 200 gr packs of "Brazil Nuts"
2 pcs. 200 gr packs of cashews
10 pcs. 100 gr packs of salted peanuts
2 pcs. 200 gr bars of "Kinder" Chocolate
2 pcs. 200 gr tubes of Pringles chips
8 pcs. 400 gr packs of "Digestive Cookies"
3 pcs. 200 gr pack of "Crunch Cream" cookies
12 pcs. 200 gr packs of "Fox Cream" cookies
3 pcs. 300 gr pack of chocolate chip cookies
24 Muesli-Energy bars
24 "Cadbury" dark chocolate bars (the very best, unfortunately not available in the US)
12 "Kellog's" granola bars
24 scones (4 x 6-packs)

4.5 pounds of onions
6 pounds of apples
1 pound of pears
3 pounds of bananas
4 pounds of carrots
4 pints of milk
1 pound of garlic

5 bottles of Jameson Whiskey (one bottle sent to each post office stop)
3 mini-bottles of red wine (for celebrations for the last night on the island "Ireland's Eye", 8 Miles North of Dublin)
1 gallon of "Bulmers" cider (2 x 4-packs)

5 pcs. 500 gr. pack Muesli
2 pounds of rice
2 pounds of couscous
4 pounds of dried milk powder
17 pcs. 1-pound packs of spaghetti
6 jars of Pesto
1 220 jar of mustard
5 cans of canned tuna steak
2 cans of canned pink salmon
2 packs of "Fajita Mix"
5 pack of instant Tomato Soup (as tomato sauce for pasta)

10 pcs. 250 gr packs of Cheddar cheese
2 pcs. 200 gr packs of Leerdammer cheese
12 packs of dried grated Parmeson cheese
8 packs of cheap dried Chinese Noodle soup

2 pounds of coffee
12 packs of Nescafe instant Cappucino-mix (which tasted & smelled not unlike the moldy sleeping bag)
120 tea bags
5 pcs. 200 gr. jars of honey
18 loafs of soda bread
13 pcs 225 gr. jars of Orange or Strawberry marmalade/jam
4 jars of peanut butter

1/2 gallon of fuel for camping stove #1 (White Gas/Spirits)
2 cans of blue "Camping Gaz" camping gas fuel for camping gas stove

... and finally: 12 rolls of the finest toilet paper

Ireland Circumnavigation: The Trip Report

as published in Paddles Magazine (UK Kayaking publication, October 2007 issue)

 

The idea to raise funds for the Royal National Lifeboat Association (RNLI) was planted 31 years ago. While fishing off the shore of South Wales, my dad lost his paddle in an inflatable kayak, and started swimming to retrieve the lost paddle. Now in the water trying to reach his lost paddle, the strong currents made my dad quickly loose touch with his kayak, and within seconds found himself in a life threatening situation. A RNLI volunteer spotted him and this RNLI volunteer was by coincidence a hobby astronomer who happened to be watching the sea with his telescope, spotted my father and thought that he was paddling too far out for the flimsy kind of craft he paddled. He thus coincidently watched my father as he was about to drown. A quick phone call was made, a RNLI lifeboat from Pwllheli was dispatched, and within minutes my father was pulled aboard a stealthy RNLI craft. Even his inflatable kayak was safely brought back ashore. Without the RNLI and their volunteers, I would have grown up in a single parent household up from age 6.


The most time I could get off from work were 60 days, and since past Ireland circumnavigations took somewhere between 36 and 92 days, I set out paddling within a solid framework and with a clear goal: paddle whenever the weather permits, and as long as you physically can, to close the circle. After averaging only 20 Miles per day during my last trip along the South and West Coast of Australia, I felt there was very little room for non-paddling days caused by bad weather during the 1,050 Miles trip around Ireland, and probably little time for leisurely explorations. Fortunately, I was erring to my advantage on 3 of Ireland's 4 coastlines: The South, North and East coast of Ireland, but not the West Coast, have currents between 2 and at places even 5 Miles an hour. A feature the Coast of Australia does not have. The second feature which helped speed up the voyage around Eire caught me by surprise on the first day: the kayak I used had a skeg, which was new to me; I had never paddled before a kayak with a skeg. Not that I have never seen a skeg or did not know how it worked, but I was very surprised that by using the skeg, I could transfer close to 100% of my paddling energy into forward motion, while spending only a minimum of energy for correctional strokes. These 2 features, the current and the skeg, made such a big difference over the course of the 6 week paddle, helping to double the average mileage from my previous trip. That said, the trip should have been relatively easy, which is what I thought until I got introduced to the lively waters along the West Coast. Depending whom you ask, Ireland's West Coast has either no currents at all, or only very weak currents, so weak that in some places even local fishermen may spend an afternoon arguing whether the current is going South or North. The West Coast featured a brew of challenges for the kayaker: Multiple 20+ Miles crossings, long stretches of up to 300 feet high cliffs, often with no possibilities for landings for many miles, and exposure to the Westerly swells from the Atlantic Ocean and the cold air masses from Iceland. For 21 days of the 26 days on the West Coast of Ireland, Met Eireann, the Irish Weather Service, broadcast a Small Craft Warning, and for 6 of them a Gale Warning. Although the weather during June and July was the worst on record in the history of the Irish Weather Service, I was still lucky with the timing of my trip: I had ideal conditions - sun and little or no winds - during my first 8 paddling days. These ideal conditions helped me to leave 1/2 of the East Coast and the entire South Coast behind. I reached Crookhaven, the beginning of the West Coast, and my first mail stop, a week after I launched in Dublin. During this first week I paddled a 2-shift "Paul Caffyn schedule" which I learned about in his book about his groundbreaking circumnavigation of Australia. Paul Caffyn wrote of his ellaborate lunch breaks with long and lazy afternoon naps, sometimes even a cold beer or two in the middle of the day. He somehow managed all this while making enormous mileage on most of his paddling days. I realized Paul Caffyn made these high daily mileages not despite these bohemian lunch breaks, but because of them. Paul Caffyn made a habit of dividing the paddling day into two 6-hours paddling "shifts", which enabled him to start refreshed and fit not only once, but twice per day. A highly appealing strategy on various levels, which I happily adopted for my Ireland trip (though I replaced the beer with whiskey).

My luck lasted only one more day past Crookhaven: In the evening of the paddling day I left Crookhaven and rounded Mizen Head, I wrote in my journal "45 Miles in 7.5 hours of paddling. An awesome paddling day. Everything was just right." I had soft wind and some swell from astern, just enough to let me surf, but not too much so I did not have to use a stern rudder to keep me going straight. In addition, there was a light current with me all day, pushing me towards Scariff Island, my goal for the day. Nothing could have prepared me for the features of the landscape which would appear after rounding first Mizen Head, and later Dursey Head. It felt like if stage hands pushed huge over-the-top, fairy tale like theater-sceneries painted on plywood past me and my kayak.: The lighthouse at Mizen Head with its hanging rope bridge, Skellig Michael appearing on the horizon, and the highly mystical Bull Rock, with its tunnel going right through it. Even after having landed on Scariff Island, the mysteries did not stop. After setting up my tent on the island, I thought I would share the island with only a bunch of sheep and thelocal bird colony, like so many previous nights before. Out of nowhere all of a sudden a person appeared standing behind me while I set up my tent. His name was Dave, a friendly kayaker from Canada paddling his folding kayak up the West Coast of Ireland in Paul-Theraux-speed. We became first friendly, and then friends, helped in a big part by a fresh bottle of destilled rye I had picked up in Crookhaven. All evening we shared our experiences from paddling along the friendly shores of Ireland, and talked about our livess back home in Canada and Brooklyn. We passed a beautiful evening with a view to Skellig Michael 10 Miles offshore to our West. Twelve hours later, the weather pattern changed for the worse, and it did not improve for the next 4 weeks.

                                  click here to see chart above enlarged


Temperatures dropped dramatically, the rain did not seem to end, and the wind seemed to always blow from the direction I wanted to paddle in. Met Eireann told of ground frost and hail storms in parts of the country, and locals wore ear mufflers, gloves and down jackets. Both the weather and the weather forecast became unpredictable, turning longer crossings into a gamble with the elements. A gamble I thought I will loose on 2 occasions when the weather deterioated too fast to reach the safety of the shore. These 2 paddles in high winds and seas somehow left a permanent mark on my psyche, and put me on a permanent unease with longer crossings until today. I felt lucky that I was able to "muscle" my way out of these 2 gales, but I am still not willing to accept the reasoning why my chosen hobby - sea kayaking - would put me in such a precarious situation. During and after paddling out of my personal maritime mayhem, I felt a huge anger towards my hobby,which for the first time was appearing to be dangerous. In addition I developed an anger towards all sorts of things: The weather, the again incorrect weather forecast, the forecasters who read the incorrect forecasts to me on the radio, and most of it all, a huge anger towards myself. This is what I thought about while trying desperately to reach the shore in a off shore wind blowing Force 8. Combined with the exhaustion of paddling for 2 long hours as hard as I possibly could towards shore in these most challenging conditions, a feeling of desperation, total fatigue, and pure scorn had ser in when I finally reached the shore close to Raghly in Sligo Bay. After having paddled for the past 20 days in strong winds, having lived in a now moldy tent, and eaten and slept in mostly driving cold rain, I declared (after having made the identical declarations the previous 4 days) this moment as the new and updated “New Alltime Low” of the trip. I was unable to find the reason why I exposed myself to the uncertainties of 20+ Miles crossings, paddle around exposed headlands, or around entire countries at a time and place where Small Craft Warnings are rather the norm than the exception? Is it to get a new perspective for my own life and little problems by experiencing these humble feelings? Thankfully every time I declared a "New Low" during the trip, something wonderful and uplifting happened shortly after which made me forget my little misery within seconds.


On many occasions it was just the sheer beauty of nature, sometimes it was an animal encounter, sometimes a beautiful island, and sometimes all three together, like the island Inishmurray with its monastry from 600 AD and its surrounding ring fortification. Being able to wander half a day on Inishmurray was my highlight of the trip, a moment I will cherish forever. More often than being impressed by the things around me, it was an encounter with an unbelievable warm and friendly person I met who lifted my spirits and made me aware I was at the right place at the right time with the just perfect mode of transportation. Whenever I visited little shops, pubs, community centers, post offices etc. on remote islands, I always felt for a brief moment a certain unease with myself before stepping through whatever door, and back into society and civilization, due to my dirty, unshaven appearance, underscored by a suspicion that I might also smell a little unpleasant. But no matter where I went, I was always welcomed with a friendly conversation and an original interest in the trip I was doing, the kayak, and the gear I used. All this accompanied more than once with a complimentary warm meal or a cold pint of Guinness. Soon after the first pint, stories of the life on Ireland's Western islands, stories of huge Basking Sharks, and tragedies from life lost on the sea were flowing as well.

   


There were 2 stories which touched me the most since I visited both of the islands where the tragedies occured. Here is one of them: I was finally able to land on Skellig Michael when I re-visited the island 10 days after completing the circumnavigation, now on a sunny day with very little wind and swell. When visiting Skellig Michael, I mentioned to a Wildlife Reserve Park Ranger on Skellig Michael that I was unable to land on Michael Skellig due to the bad weather at the time of my circumnavigation, appr. 4 weeks earlier. The park ranger listened to me patiently, but then took me aside and showed me a gravestone, which was covering the grave of 2 children, the 2 sons of the former lighthouse keeper on Skellig Michael. Both of his sons became seriously ill in the Winter in the 1920's and the lighthouse keeper phoned the Irish Lighthouse Service, asking to evacuate his sons from the island to bring them to a hospital. A long lasting Winter prohibited numerous evacuation efforts by the Irish Lighthouse Service to land - and to evacuate - the 2 children due to the dangerous seas. Since the numerous evacuation efforts all failed due to the high swell, wind, and waves of the long lasting violent Winter storm which made landing on the extremely difficult landing of Skellig Michael impossible, the lighthouse keeper's first son died in December, and since the storm did not end its violent grip on Skellig Michael for 4 1/2 full months, the second son died in March.

Just yesterday, I received an email from Dave, the folding kayaker from Canada, asking if I am still planning to paddle the West Coast again next year, proposing that we may paddle some days together. The dog-eared and salty Imray chart C54 showing West Ireland hangs framed in my bedroom, looking at it, I am thinking about the friends I like to ask if they are interested joining Dave and myself.

Essential items used during the circumnavigation: Nigel Dennis "Explorer" kayak (by Sea Kayaking UK), Extrasport Drytops and -pants, Lendal Paddles, EPIRB, Imray C-Series Charts (marine charts featuring tidal stream information), the books "Lonesome Traveler" by Jack Kerouac, "Ireland - An Oxford Archaeological Guide" by Andy Halpin & Conor Newman, "Brendan Voyage" by Tim Severin, and "Oileain" by David Walsh.

Thank you, Kate and Lyn for helping to edit this article.

May Day! List of Gear the sea, or I, managed to destroy

 
- Sprayskirt: The bungee cord of the sprayskirt snapped, and neoprene cover began to tear shortly after. SnapDargon kindly sent a replacement sprayskirt to Tory Island.

- Hole in boat: The stern of the boat landed a bit violently on a larger boulder, which left a 2-3 inch hole in the stern section (Aran Islands)

- Thermarest Mattress: The mattress gave birth to a huge lump, which grew to football-size. This lump was first welcomed since I now had a built-in pillow, but it became too large eventually.

- Tent: The constant winds chaffed the tent fly over the tent poles for weeks and weeks, leaving lots of tiny holes where ever the tent fly touched the poles. After 4 weeks, the tent became moldy and smelly, since it had been packed in the air tight kayak hatches wet over a too long period of time.

- Chart Holder on front deck of kayak: Ripped into pieces after the second surf landing.

- Shoes: Disintegrated (soles came off etc.)

- Stove: Fuel line connection broke, later the whole stove broke while I tried to tighten the base screw.

- Kayak: The skeg just disappeared on the last day's paddle. When I looked into the skeg box during the lunch break since the boat was weathercocking all morning, the skeg just wasn't there anymore.

- Kayak: 4 more holes in the front department and lots of gelcoat damage after a bit careless landing on my part (I dragged the fully loaded boat onto a concrete boat ramp after landing).

- Radio: The antenna of my Grundig short-wave radio broke off, but was still able to receive the Met Eireann weather forecast and the Top 100 on RTE2.

Its official: I hit the worst Weather in Irish History during June and July since 1837

Of course: You always think you hit the worst weather in centuries when you travel, no matter where you go. Whining about the weather made good travel stories since the day the first man set foot outside his/her cave. In this ense, it came a little bit as a relief to get the "Irish Times" on August 2nd, with the headline on page 1 proclaiming: "Worst Weather in Ireland in History"."Met Erieann statistics have confirmed what everyone knows - that there were 49 consecutive days of rainfall from June 11th to July 29th. Records were broken in Dublin when more rain fell in the past 2 months than in any previous June and July since 1837 when records began."

Thank you, thank you, thank you, ... !

- Dan Starer, Lyn Goldsmith, and Kate DeRoberts, for making the very first donations to this fund raiser in the literally "First Hour" of the fundraiser.
- My parents Ulla & Helmut, and Pat Slaven, The Van Rossens, and Bonnie, for following suit.
- W.G. Wilson at Imray Charts, Ltd for sending me the amazing Imray Charts of the Irish coastline, which featured also all relevant tidal info.
- Nigel Dennis and Jeff Folmsbee for helping me out big time in lending me a boat and gear, and for their support without limitations.
- Chris Heffernen at Extrasport and Lendal Paddles US
- Stephen Wynne and the incredible hospitable and great crew from the Dun Laoghoire RNLI lifeboathouse.
- Mike and Rich at Snap Dragon Designs Sprayskirts for sending me a replacement sprayskirt to Troy Island in record time.
- Jim Kennedy of Atlantic Sea Kayaking (South West Ireland) for sending me his copy of the Irish Coast Pilot book.
- All paddlers from Ireland who provided me with pre-trip intelligence, and
- Everybody who donated so far, and also everybody who did not, but showed interest in the cause and in the trip.